Meanwhile Back at the Dock

5 June, 2010 (00:00) | Virginia | By: tillergirl

Wait honey while I buy some life insurance -- Greg stands on toolbox on top of step ladder to complete task #27, rewire the SSB antenna on the back-stay

Wait honey while I buy some life insurance -- Greg stands on toolbox on top of step ladder to complete task #27, rewire the SSB antenna on the back-stay

Every cruising sailor knows the lure of the marina dock.  Once your docklines are firmly affixed to those pilings, the likelihood of extracting yourself diminishes as quickly as barnacles latch onto your hull.  This year we committed absolutely, we’re not kidding now, to staying exactly one month before continuing our cruising northward.  One month later we are exhausted from the flurry of doctor & dental appointments, routine maintenance, unscheduled gear replacements, once-a-year shopping ventures, and a blizzard of Internet orders and mail order packages.

You’d think it would be the novelty of unlimited electricity and trips to the grocery store in a car that would keep us tethered to land, but we really find it easy to sail away from creature comforts.  It’s the boat, the whole boat and nothing but the boat that mires us in a marina each year for six months. Oh, and maybe the parties and daily dock chats and helpful advice offered other cruisers on their projects.

Our unedited lists of boat projects tallied close to 3 digits before we honed and cut and gutted and finally agreed on 40 critical tasks.   So how did we do?  Well, I’m off to pay the marina for another month and that list now stands at, ummmm, about 40 critical tasks.    And we DID complete about 79 tasks in the past month.  Some of you may be scratching your heads at our arithmetic but cruisers understand.  It does not add up due to Capt. Claw’s Corollary:  thou shall not complete any given boat project without creating two new projects of equal effort and expense.    Given the certainty of this axiom, we’ve decided to wait until we receive our autopilot parts back from refurbishing and shove off.  The only way to manage that list is to toss it overboard!

First and Last Bridges

6 May, 2010 (00:00) | Virginia | By: tillergirl

The last bridge behind us

The last bridge behind us

Our outside passages from the Dry Tortugas to Beaufort, NC provided one huge advantage over the ICW route — we cut our bridge transits from 140 to 13.  This was so enjoyable that after transiting the Alligator River Bridge in NC we felt obligated to call several cruising friends waiting at bridges in the Carolinas and point out that this was the very first bridge we’d encountered!  It would have been prudent to postpone gloating until we were through the remaining 12 bridges, always a headache in the frantic reaches of Hampton Roads.  The night before our transit through Hampton Roads, friends Kathy & Darius on Breeze Hunter were stranded at a railroad (RR) bridge lowered for the night had to anchor in the Elizabeth River overnight.  These RR bridges are normally only lowered when a train is coming, and since their operation is automatic there is no one to call when they’re mysteriously down and clogging up river traffic.

So the next morning, regretting our heartless bridge schadenfreude back at the Alligator, we thought we’d

Cruise ship dwarfs the battleship USS Wisconsin on the Norfolk waterfront

Cruise ship dwarfs the battleship USS Wisconsin on the Norfolk waterfront

get payback when we rounded the bend and saw that the same RR bridge was lowered.  Luckily a tow boat operator knew he could call another manned bridge and get the scoop — the bridge would be raised in 5 minutes.  An hour or so later we sighed with relief as we passed through the Gilmerton Bridge, the last fixed obstacle before reaching the Chesapeake Bay.

We had not yet made it past the Navy base and soon heard two inbound warships check in with the traffic control tower at the mouth of the Bay.  Greg remarked that “once again the Navy has been nice enough to send a welcoming party out to meet us”.   Unfortunately the welcoming party gets pretty surly if you come anywhere near their vessels and avoidance is sometimes difficult since we share the same channel.

We scrambled to get to the far side of the channel so there could be no doubt of our intent but overheard a power vessel get a severe and very public dressing down via VHF.  It seems the skipper of this recreational vessel tried to cut between the warship and shore just as the warship was being turned into its berth, not a bright move.  The Navy officer pointed out that the guy may want to reconsider that move next time if he wants to avoid getting all those guns pointed at him again, as the consequences next might be deadly.

We hustled Yoohoo out of Hampton Roads and back to Southall Landings Marina where we left six months ago.  It’s a strange feeling being able to just step off the boat to go for a walk and plug in a cord to get electricity!

Sea Legs

1 May, 2010 (00:00) | Florida, North Carolina | By: tillergirl

Moon Over Fernandina Beach

Moon Over Fernandina Beach

We finally made a multi-day passage without being chased in by a cold front.  Of course this was the second half of another offshore passage that was interrupted by a cold front, but we can live with a Fernandina, FL to Beaufort, NC passage rather than a Miami to Beaufort passage.  Unfortunately our 57 hours at sea were all spent motoring or motor-sailing as the winds, predicted to be 15 knots were 10 to begin with and then calm.  This became an issue when the engine died suddenly at our furthest point offshore.  Too far offshore to be towed anywhere and, just to add a touch of tension, in a current pushing Yoohoo toward Frying Pan Shoals off of Cape Fear.

As we rolled and rolled in the swell Greg painstakingly searched through every bit of the fuel system for a clog.  I

Another exhausted snowbird catches a ride on our fishing ride

A fellow snowbird, exhausted, catches a ride on our fishing rod

hoisted all sail that wasn’t already hoisted and sailed toward Africa in an effort to clear Frying Pan Shoals.   There was just enough wind to keep steerage on and Yoohoo blazed a wake at 1.5 knots over the ground.   Three hours later Capt  Claw cried Eureka! as he pulled a bit of jellied diesel out of the elbow at the top of the fuel

tank.  The engine was back running soon and just in the nick of time as the wind died totally and stayed that way until the next day when we approached Beaufort inlet.  Inexplicably, the closer we got to land the stronger the wind got and by the time we had made landfall was blowing 30 knots.   Despite the calm passage and the engine drill, the second we’ve suffered on this trip north, we were happy to be in NC on the ICW for the first time, having skipped umpteen low spots and hundreds of opening bridges.  Perhaps our sea legs have grown just a bit.

Visual Distress Signal Response

24 April, 2010 (20:00) | Florida | By: tillergirl

On the same hop from Miami Beach to Fernandina Beach we experienced an event that will make me wonder the rest of my life.  We had already decided to head into Fernandina to avoid the next day’s storms and had chugged our way west out of the Gulf Stream but were still 30 - 40 miles offshore.  Until noon we had regularly seen fishing boats but the new doom and gloom forecast had left us alone on the Atlantic despite it being Saturday.  Greg was down below and I was at the helm marveling that the eastern horizon, rimmed with faint apricot, still reflected the last wee bit of the sunset though the western horizon was completed dark.

Suddenly in the east a red pulsating light hovered above the horizon and then fell, fading into oblivion within seconds of it forming.  Oh my gosh!  Was that an aerial flare?  I noted my position, the compass bearing to where I saw the light, and the time.  I hesitated to do anything based on this unexpected visual flash, questioning my own perception and reviewing the fact that a large percentage of flares turn out to be hoaxes or incidents where the shooter did not know that it is illegal to fire a flare except in the event of a real emergency.   Illegal as in criminal penalties up to 6 years in jail.

Greg came up in the cockpit and I relayed my tale of seeing spots.  He also was reluctant to take action. We debated the likelihood that it was a real distress signal.  We could not come up with other lights such as an airplane which could have been confused with a flare.  There is no land in that direction until you reach Africa.  We could not pick up any other boats on our radar but our older radar is limited to 16 miles at best.   We had our steaming light on at the time I witnessed the possible flare — since this light is half-way up the mast it is visible to someone just over the horizon and could prompt someone in distress to try to signal the only boat they saw — Yoohoo.

Then, as we still debated my credibility, I spied the second flare to the east, close to the bearing of the first.  I shouted at Greg and he grabbed the binoculars and managed a look before it sizzled out ten seconds later.  Two sets of eyes are definitely better than one at night at sea and the signal was much clearer this time as the eastern horizon was now totally black.  It was an aerial flare. Greg took the bearing and I updated our position and called the Coast Guard fearing our transmission would be difficult to receive given our distance offshore.  Coast Guard Sectors Canaveral, Ponce and Jacksonville all responded within seconds so I guess our transmission was fine!

The Coast Guard asked many questions, probably to sort out whether this was an honest report or a hoax,  and probably to determine our level of competence in making such a report.  We’d done well in noting our latitude and longitude and the bearing to the sighting but had to guess at the steps that would help the Coast Guard determine the likely distance of the flare from Yoohoo’s position.  They issued an immediate Pan Pan call, a call put out to all vessels relaying urgent information, in this case to keep a sharp lookout for a vessel in distress in that location.

We thought that might be the end of their action unless other vessels reported sightings of the same flare.  Our go-slow vessel was not in a position to search for anything floating rapidly north in the Gulf Stream as it would be long gone by the time we got there. So we continued on toward Fernandina silently contemplating whether people in a liferaft, a dinghy, or worse were desperately watching our light disappear over the far horizon.  About an hour after our report to the Coast Guard they hailed us back, thanked us, and told us that they had dispatched a helicopter to search the area.  Later, Greg heard the helicopter pilot hailing another sailboat via VHF to ask if everyone on board was OK.  He did not hear the response.  We’ll never know who shot those flares, whether they were indeed in distress, and what happened to them.

So, if you are at sea and believe you see a flare here is how you record the sighting:

1.  Hold your fist up to the horizon at the position of the flare like you are holding you coffee mug.  Place the bottom of your little finger on the horizon and count the number of fingers above the horizon that the flare rose.   This is the step I missed and had to estimate after-the-fact.

2.  Note the color of the flare, whether it rose and fell at equal speeds or whether it rose quickly and then descended slowly.  Note how many seconds it was lit.  This information will help determine the type of flare that was fired — meteor or parachute and it’s likely height above the water.   The information from 1 and 2 will be used by the Coast Guard to estimate the distance from your reported position to the position of the flare.

3.  Take a magnetic bearing to the flare, note your latitude and longitude, and the time.  Then call the Coast Guard.

We hope our sighting was legitimate, that the people were found and are now safe.  I also hope that my life never depends on such a marginal means of signaling for help!

Let’s Go Surfin’ Now

24 April, 2010 (09:00) | Florida | By: tillergirl

Capt Claw finally isolated the source of our cooling system leak in the heat exchanger and we ordered a new one into Miami Beach.  The diagnosis took many days but luckily the repair itself was quick and relatively painless.  As we completed the repairs we noticed that the weather was setting up for an outside passage from Miami to Beaufort, NC.  We quickly picked up more provisions, fuel and water and headed out Government Cut and into the Atlantic Friday morning.  Soon we were sailing close-hauled on flat seas ripping along at 8 knots with sprinting to 10 compliments of the Gulf Stream.  198 miles in 24 hours — woohoo!

By Saturday morning the wind soon died and we applied just enough engine to keep the sails drawing and Yoohoo on her feet instead of rolling drunkenly.  A new weather forecast promised “vigorous thunderstorms” on Sunday and we reluctantly gave up our Streaming to chug our way into Fernandina Beach.  This took all day and most the night to return from 40 miles offshore and we didn’t get the anchor down until 3:00 a.m. Sunday.  This trek back to land would have been quite a drag if a huge pod of dolphins hadn’t joined us to surf off our bow wave despite the rather calm conditions.

It’s moments like these that make me thank my lucky stars that my Mom and Dad taught us to love the outdoors and especially, the water and boats.  They used to pack our family of 7 in one car and head to the north woods every summer weekend to go camping.  Fishing opener often involved 3-4 kids in the same rowboat armed with sharp hooks and wild casting arms all requesting parental help while ignoring every instruction.

Today, the pod of dolphins surfed Yoohoo’s bow for nearly an hour and smaller groups continued to come back until past midnight.  I was wishing I had a boatload of grandkids to share this wonder.  Instead, here is a video of our friends — I’d like to dedicate this to Mom and Dad, thanks for all the great outdoor memories!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qF3_aazNvEM